An herb with a pedigree that goes back to the Bible, za’atar, or hyssop leaf, is at the heart of the blend of the same name. Herby, tangy, nutty, and slightly salty, the blend elevates every dish it touches. Every spring, when za’atar grows in abundance, Arab and Palestinian women dry reams of it on rooftops and patios before grinding it with sesame, salt, sumac, and, occasionally, thyme for a homemade version they use all year. There are different styles of za’atar all over the Middle East; some are much tangier due to the amount of sumac added; some have more sesame seeds or salt. I found making my own to be a revelation, because I could control exactly how much of each element I wanted in the mix. Microwaving herbs to dry them is another discovery; it removes the moisture while leaving the herbs bright green. You can sometimes find za’atar fresh at farmers’ markets or well-stocked Middle Eastern stores, but fresh oregano is a worthy stand-in; dried herbs also work really well here, too.