Robyn Eckhardt documents Turkey’s expansive cuisine from all regions in Istanbul & Beyond.

In Van, yogurt made from sheep’s milk (sometimes mixed with goat’s milk) is drained in cloth-lined sieves for up to three days, resulting in a yogurt more sensuously rich and creamy than any store-bought Greek-style yogurt. With a little advance planning, it’s easy to achieve the same result at home. Add salt, fresh herbs, and chunks of crunchy cucumber, and you’ve got a wildly flavorful dip. My go-to herbs for this recipe are dill and flat-leaf parsley, but you can use cilantro, chervil, mint, oregano, or even tarragon. The yogurt must be drained for at least 24 hours; the longer it drains, the more delicious the result. Don’t throw away the whey your yogurt gives off. It’s a healthy, refreshing drink and makes a great pickle brine. This dish is an essential element of the Van breakfast and often shares a plate with soft unsalted butter, which diners mash into the yogurt with a fork. It also works well as a meze, and I like it alongside roasted vegetables.